Sewing Reference Info
Sewing Reference Links
www.vintagesewing.info - Vintage sewing reference material from the 1900s to the 1950s. Lots of great sewing information and articles on how to fit and alter patterns. www.vintagesewing.info/1930s/30-paris/paris-09.html - Chapter on fitting patterns with many diagrams and helpful tips
Don't Know How to Sew or Don't Have Time?
Jane Foster Design - www.janefosterdesign.com - Jane Foster's Sewing and Design Studio. Sewing Instruction in San Francisco East Bay area of Walnut Creek. Very experienced teacher offers expert fitting for all figure types. Ongoing studio classes every week for all sewing levels. Private sessions. Sewing Retreats to Asilomar/Monterey area. (925)939-2328
American Sewing Guild - www.asg.org - "We are a national not-for-profit organization that is dedicated to people who believe sewing is a creative and rewarding activity. We work towards spreading the joy and benefits of sewing with our members and our communities through individual ASG Chapters. The Guild provides current sewing news, education, information, techniques and networking opportunities for sewers of every skill level."
www.paccprofessionals.org - PACC is a nationwide, not-for-profit organization of sewing professionals, designers and educators working in home-based and commercial settings. PACC provides the names of its members in the United States and Canada through its Website referral list.
General Sewing Reference
www.butterick.com/tech/tech.html - Information on taking measurements, fit, and how to put a lining in a jacket
sewing.patternreview.com - PatternReview.com is used by 27,778 sewers to collaborate, share and discuss the projects they have been working on, or are planning to work on. It catalogs and describes sewers experiences and opinions in a structured way so that you can quickly and easily find the information they are looking for. The value of this site keeps increasing as more and more sewers start using it.
www.sewingworld.com - A very active forum to discuss all aspects of sewing
www.taunton.com/threads/index.asp - Threads Magazine with lots of great ideas and information to help and inspire your sewing
http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/ - Sewing Publications on the subject of Clothing from New Mexico State University including some excellent articles on fit and pattern alteration.
Sewing Tricks
from Star Book #23 Published by Victory Needles, 1943
There are many tricks to help the home dressmaker achieve a professional rather than a home-made look. These show in the proper fit, in neat finish and in smooth pressing. They require a little extra care but they will pay dividends in increased wear and smartness.
ADJUSTING THE PATTERN
If you are not a perfect size as far as the pattern measurements are concerned, it will be necessary to adjust and fit the pattern before cutting the garment. Pin the sections of the pattern together and carefully try on this "half of the garment." If an inch or two has to be deducted or added, either mark this on the pattern or cut and pin on an extra piece of tissue to make the proper fit. Most professional dressmakers use a warm iron and press out all fold creases in the pattern before making these adjustments.
SPONGING FABRIC
If the material is not clearly marked "Sanforized Shrunk" (Pre-Shrunk), it is advisable to shrink before cutting the garment. If it is a washable fabric, wet it thoroughly and hang it in the shade to dry. If it is rayon, silk or wool lay a damp cloth on it and press from the wrong side. With wool, the damp cloth may be laid right on the fabric. In rayon or silk lay a dry cloth between the fabric and the damp cloth to avoid pressing a shine into the fabric.
CUTTING
Patterns have printed diagrams suggesting the best way to lay on different widths of material. Follow these guides carefully, noting the differences marked for pile fabric or for fabric without pile. Also note that every section has perforations that mark the straight of the goods. Do not vary these as change in grain will vary the fit of the garment. When parts of the pattern are cut on the bias fold the fabric, raw edge to selvage, to be sure to obtain a true bias. Any skirt made on the bias should be allowed to hang on a hanger for at least 24 hours before the hem is put in.
FITTING AFTER BASTING
After the garment has been cut it should be basted together, section by section, and carefully fitted. After the sections are fitted each should be stitched on the machine or by hand, and each seam pressed before proceeding. Make the bodice, then the skirt, then fit the two together.
SETTING IN THE SLEEVES
It is important to have both sleeves set in identically. They should be basted in, paying careful attention to matching notches, and the garment tried on. Notice whether the fit is comfortable and easy, whether there is free movement or whether the sleeve "pulls " Adjust it so it is comfortable before stitching in place. If you are a very active person, a double row of machine stitching will be insurance against the sleeve pulling out at the seams. Always bind the raw edges of the armhole seams with tape. This provides more comfort and better wear.
PUTTING IN THE HEM
If possible have someone hang the garment for you. After it is thoroughly pressed and the placket closing complete, put it on and stand on a firm surface. Be sure the shoes you are wearing have the heel height you will wear with the dress. Hold a yardstick firmly and, turning slowly, have pins placed at even distances from the floor. Turn up hem, baste, then press and finish. If-you have no one to help you, buy a hem-marker. They have bulbs to be filled with powdered chalk. As you turn slowly, squeeze the bulb and a small mark will indicate the hem line. Turn and sew by hand. Never stitch a hem by machine. If the fabric is very heavy, one turn will do. The raw edge can be pinked or bound with silk tape. If the fabric is light take a double turn to hide raw edge.
FINE FINISH
The more expensive a custom-made dress, the more hand work has gone into the finish ... so if you want your simplest dresses to have that expensive look, be sure they are well finished on both the wrong and the right sides. Fine rolled edges with tiny hemming stitches, carefully sewn bias bindings, and neat hems are part of this hand finishing. Other parts are the bindings and finish of every seam or raw edge on the wrong side of the dress. Note the four methods of finish suggested under "Seams" on page 34. Use any one of these, but be consistent. Methods 3 and 4 are best for fabrics that ravel easily. Any dainty touches of handmade trim help to give a garment an expensive look. Monograms such as those shown on page 22, mounted or appliqued trim such as those shown on pages 20 and 21, help to give the personal touch that sets a dress apart from the ordinary "purchased-in-a-hurry" garment.
TAILORED TREATMENTS
Tailored seams, careful pressing, and neat hems make it possible to make an attractive suit or coat at home. It is not difficult to add a lining, or even an interlining. A tailored suit should always have a canvas interlining introduced in the front of the jacket, between the lining and the fabric. This is basted at frequent intervals with bastings that need not be removed later. Use thread to match the fabric and catch through lightly. Mold and fit to figure by means of darts and tucks.
PUTTING IN A LINING
Some patterns have a separate pattern for the lining front. Otherwise the lining is cut from the jacket or coat pattern exactly the same size, and a wide enough strip trimmed off the two front panels to avoid covering the facings. Make the complete lining. Now place the two together. Baste and fit. Tack the lining to the jacket along each seam. Press carefully. Then sew and press the armhole, down the center back (be sure the lining has a fold of fabric here to allow for the pull and strain). Then turn in all raw edges about 1 inch from the edge of the collar, the facing and the bottom of the sleeve and sew with the blind-hemming stitch. Around the bottom of the jacket sew lining and fabric together or hem each separately. The latter method is preferable. It makes for better fit, and keeps the jacket from pulling up at the bottom. This method of hanging lining and coat hem separately is necessary in a full length coat.
PUTTING IN AN INTERLINING
An interlining of lamb's wool or batting should be sewed to the lining before the lining is sewn in place. It is also advisable to tack it in place with uncut tailor's tacks at intervals to keep it from sagging away from the lining.
SEWING IN BUTTONS, SNAPS, HOOKS AND EYES
All closure fasteners should be sewn in firmly with double duty thread. After sewing through the button and the fabric several turns of thread should be passed around the thread between the button and the fabric to form a shank. End the thread with two buttonhole loops, pass under the fabric, knot and cut. If the fabric is a soft wool coating that will have a lot of pull it is wise to sew a smaller button under the fabric with the same stitches that attach the button.
PUTTING IN A PLACKET
With the convenient slide fasteners off the market it is necessary to go back to plackets. Cut a straight strip two inches wide and long enough to go completely around the placket. Stitch one edge to the right side of the fabric, fold, turn in the raw edge and fell down by hand. Sew snap fasteners or hooks and eyes so they exactly match.
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