Hilde Hat Sew Along Part 3 - Bind that Brim July 14 2023
Click here for previous installment.
Once again, don’t freak out if the fabric/hat in the photos changes from step to step.
To finish the outer edge of the brim, you will need a bias strip that is 2” by approximately 54.” You’ll most likely need to piece this to get that length. The ends of your bias need to be cut on the cross grain as shown.
Working on the top side of the hat, pre-shape the bias binding aligning the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the brim gently pressing as you work.
Once you’ve worked all the way around the perimeter of the hat, overlap the short ends by 1/2” and cut the excess off the binding.
Starting about 3” from the end of your binding, stitch to the brim with a 3/8” seam allowance.
Your bias strip will most likely grow as you are stitching and your overlap will be greater than 1/2” when you get to the other end. Check the length of your strip and trim so that the overlap is 1/2.”
Fold your brim bringing the two loose ends of the bias strip together and secure with a sewing clip (left pic). Close the circle of the binding stitching the short ends, right size together, with a 1/4” seam allowance (middle pic.) Trim corners.
Release the brim from the sewing clip. Press the seam open, you might need to reshape that 7” segment of bias strip back into shape (right pic.)
Stitch the remaining section of bias trip to the brim.
Press the bias strip towards the outer edge of the brim. This step is a little fiddly. You want want to avoid stretching out the pre-shaping. Working with just the tip of your iron, gently lift up the binding and press towards the outer edge of the brim. The loose edge of binding will be cupping over the tip of your iron. Work your way all the way around the brim pressing as you go.
Next, flip the binding over to the underside of the brim - if your shaping is still in place, it will snap around to the underside and be cupping the underside of the brim as shown.
With the underside of the hat facing up, fold under the raw edge of the binding until you have approximately 1/2” finished width. Pin or clip securely in place. Edge stitch the folded edge of the binding from the underside of the brim- through all layers.
Just the hat band to finish!!